Punta Tombo and Península Valdés

You’ve seen the videos, a killer whale surfaces behind the waves and slowly approaches a desert beach. Unaware of the encroaching danger, a seal pup strays away from its mother and cluelessly frolics at the edge of the surf. Suddenly, the massive orca lunges up onto the golden sand and tears the pup into the water. This is the wild coast of northern Patagonia!

Yes, Argentina’s southern province is a scenic powerhouse boasting glaciers galore, rocky peaks, powder-blue lakes, and thousands of kilometers of desert steppe, but it also doubles as one of the planet’s best wildlife destinations. While much of the world has its eyes on popular locations such as the Galapagos, Komodo or the Serengeti, naturalists in the know are exploring the lesser-known coasts of northern Patagonia. Two of the region’s more spectacular sights are the famous orca hunting grounds on Península Valdés and the world’s largest Continue…

Patagonia’s Los Glaciares National Park North

Tony backed by Mt. Fitz Roy

The sun filtering through the half-drawn curtains of our bus was a good omen. More than ever, Tony and I needed the weather gods to be on our side. We had traveled hundreds of kilometers to the northern reaches of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares just to be wowed by Argentina’s most famous and picturesque granite peaks, Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. As we drove along Viedma Lake toward the tiny town of El Chaltén, the fluffy clouds above started drifting apart revealing circular patches of blue sky and, to our excitement, bits and pieces of the Fitz Roy Mountain Range ahead.

Was this going to be our lucky day? It seemed like Patagonia’s notorious weather was taking a nap – at least for now. We dropped off our luggage at the Lunajuim Hotel in El Chaltén, quietly sneaked out of town as to not awaken the bad weather gods, and rushed up the trail for Laguna Capri. It was only a few hours until sundown, but we were determined to reach the lagoon from where we hoped to see Mount Fitz Roy in all its glory. We knew it was a bit of a gamble Continue…

Patagonia’s Los Glaciares National Park South

Perito Moreno Glacier

I know exactly what you are thinking, more glaciers? Yes, it’s true, our recent adventures in Antarctica and Tierra del Fuego feel like the ultimate tour of the world’s greatest ice flows. Hey, it’s the far south – that’s what people come to see, right? And we are just getting started. Our latest destination is the superstar of Patagonian ice, the spectacular Perito Moreno Glacier. Located in the southern reaches of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares in southwestern Argentina, the Perito Moreno Glacier is famous for its very active calving as well as the ability to get up-close and personal with all the action. And while Perito Moreno might steal the spotlight, there are several other up-and-coming starlet glaciers that will literally take your breath away.

Most travelers and ice adventurers base themselves in the small town of El Calafate, 80 km east of the national park. While the artisanal chocolate and ice cream shops along the town’s main drag are a definite plus, it’s really the natural setting on the shores of Lake Argentino which makes El Calafate stand out. The beautiful grey-green lake is Argentina’s biggest body of water and is thought to be Continue…