Flying Foxes

It’s almost like getting ready for our favorite reruns of Seinfeld. Every night at 7:15 PM, we sit on the rooftop of our hotel (always at the same table, unless somebody dares to take “our” spot) to wait for the show to start. At around 7:30 PM, the first flying foxes appear in the sky, still at quite a distance behind the City Palace. By the time the first bats start flying over our heads, others have joined in, and soon, there are hundreds and eventually thousands of flying foxes silhouetted against the dark-blue evening sky. They all have one common goal Continue…

Udaipur – Octopussy Territory

We’ve made our way to the Rajasthani town of Udaipur, home to the world-famous Lake Palace. Bond-aficionados will immediately recognize the name Udaipur as the setting for theĀ 1983 film Octopussy, a spectacular example of 80s Bond kitsch featuring a band of Amazon trapeze artists slash jewel smugglers who help Bond prevent nuclear tragedy. How can you not love a film which culminates with an army of Bond-girls clad in red polyester bodysuits storming Udaipur’s Monsoon Palace by trapeze joined by Bond in a Union Jack hot-air balloon. God, I love it. Continue…

Selective Photography

All over Rajasthan, we’ve seen beautiful pictures of the “remote desert ruins” of Bada Bagh. Restaurants and hotels are decorated with tourist posters luring tourists to explore the beautiful attraction. Guidebooks entice travelers to seek out the site featuring an isolated desert hilltop covered with stone cenotaphs. But it turns out that Bada Bagh is a prime example of selective photography. Continue…

Laughing Alex

There were few tourists in Khuri. Alex was one of them. When we first met him outside of Badal House, he was wearing a baseball cap with a smiley face and the slogan “Heute schon gelacht?” (German for “Have you already had a laugh today?”).

Tony and I thought he had a distinct French accent but soon found out he was from Israel, born to Ukrainian immigrant parents. French, though, is his passion, and when he started speaking it and waving his arms around like a mad French man, he became a different person. Suddenly, he sounded like a 70-year-old cigar-smoking French film maker. I was impressed. But Tony who speaks French quite well (unlike me) was not fooled. He just stood there with a drooping lower lip and blinking rapidly, “This isn’t French.” And he was right – it wasn’t. It was Continue…

Badal House

Recently we’ve been ranting and raving about all the negative encounters we’ve had with Indian people. Our friends and family are wondering why we are still here, and our friend Anne left a comment on the blog saying, “I am sorry to say that, despite the beauty that you have written about, I don’t think I want to go to India.” Yet, we are still here. Why? Because there are the few experiences that make it all worth it. Continue…