Laos
The Akha
By Tony on April 13, 2010 | 1 Comment »
The first time I went to Thailand in 1990, I had the opportunity to trek through portions of the North to visit many of the hill tribes. At that time, traditional clothing and culture were still very intact. Yes, there were already too many tourists, but there was still much to be seen and experienced especially in the remote regions along the borders of Burma and Laos. The markets of the Golden Triangle were filled with a mix of exotic tribal people donning colorful garb buying and selling goods in a dozen languages. The obvious stars of the markets were the Akha, a group whose unique culture, blood-red betel nut stained teeth, and over-the-top headdresses made them one of the most recognizable tribal groups in the world. I had hoped to share this amazing culture with Thomas here in less developed Laos, but that has proven much more » Continue reading this post »
What are YOU Having for Dinner?
By Thomas on April 11, 2010 | 2 Comments »
Up the Nam Ou
By Tony on April 9, 2010 | No Comments »
Our explorations of Laos have taken us into the largely roadless eastern Phongsali Province. The main artery into the region is the Nam Ou, a river that cuts through some dramatic karst scenery, stretches of jungle, and a series of river villages accessible only by boat. The region is quite beautiful, although the hideous, smoke-filled skies kill the thrill a bit.
Traveling here is time-consuming and tough, harkening back to the “good ol’ days” when the journey itself was the attraction. Gone are the tourist hordes, instead each turn reveals a riverscape recalling another age.
Our journey up the Nam Ou is taking place very late in the dry season and river travel will be coming to an end at any moment. Our boat pilots were extremely skilled and quite cautiously navigated » Continue reading this post »
Troubling Visitors
By Tony and Thomas on April 7, 2010 | 1 Comment »
What’s up with the tourists here in Laos? The country is a magnet for drinkers and drug addicts. The party crowd plows their way across the country in a wave of destructive cluelessness. Why? Why come to Laos to party? Is there something I’m missing? Stick to Fort Lauderdale or Ibiza.
In response to this wave of numbskulls, Laos has begun to plead for better behavior. Here are some of the amusing/sad announcements we’ve seen in hotels and restaurants around the country. » Continue reading this post »
Morning Alms in Luang Prabang
By Thomas on April 5, 2010 | No Comments »
A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995, the town of Luang Prabang is not only known for its fusion of Lao and French colonial architecture but also for its many Buddhist temples. Most visitors come here to relax and soak up the atmosphere while enjoying a cold Lao beer and a warm French baguette. But the real attraction starts much earlier in the day.
As early as 6 AM, hundreds of Buddhist monks and novices leave their wats and pour into the streets of the historic temple district to collect their morning alms. The colorful procession only lasts for an hour. By 7 AM, when all the alms bowls are filled, the monks disappear as quickly as they appeared.
