If you see something swimming by in the video above which looks like an underwater Far Side cartoon creature wearing horn-rimmed glasses, that would be the mimic octopus. Mimic octopus? If you are wondering where you heard that name before, it might be that you read a recent National Geographic article about the discovery of a species of jaw fish which, ironically enough, mimics the mimic octopus. (That’s a lot of mimicry!)

We spent a couple of days at Ankermi Happy Dive Resort in northern Flores diving their world-famous muck sites. Lucky finds included: mimic octopus, long-arm octopus, a dazzling variety of nudibranchs, cuttlefish, yellow and black seahorses, an adult painted frogfish, 4 large harlequin ghost pipefish… it’s like a muck diving miracle.

There were also several extremely small animals we had never seen before such as bizarrely tiny pipefish and micro-nudibranchs. These animals were so small that we actually dove with a magnifying glass. Filming during muck dives is always a challenge as, unlike the jaw fish and the mimic octopus, we don’t have the ability to mimic our surroundings. Despite the challenges, of all our dive videos, this just might be one of our favorites.

 

That’s right, four years! We hardly believe it ourselves. The last year has been spent in the Philippines, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Malaysia. While we haven’t added a large number of countries to the list, we’ve traveled extensively and added a mind-boggling number of experiences.

Highlights range from diving with thresher sharks and mantas in the Philippines to market hopping in Vietnam’s northern tribal regions to exploring the vastness of Thailand’s Khao Sok National Park. During our month-long Vietnam Food-venture, we also sampled some of the best food on the planet.

The last twelve months have also taken us through some of the most stunning karst scenery on the planet. We paddled and snorkeled our way through Palawan in the Philippines, cruised Vietnam’s picturesque Halong Bay, and spent two months island hopping along Thailand’s Andaman coast. We’ve also seen some of the world’s most breath-taking beaches from the islands in El Nido Bay to Boracay to Nha Trang to Koh Adang. Pure tropical bliss.

But don’t think we spent all our time lying under the palms. Year four has largely been about our quest to view the planet’s vanishing wildlife from pygmy sea horses to flying lemurs to a dolphin superpod to shy tarsiers… the list could run for pages.

So, happy birthday ContemporaryNomad.com – you’ve seen a lot at the tender age of four.

We dove Sugar Wreck, T3 and Temple of the Sea. Exciting discoveries included the biggest barracuda I’ve ever seen, our first bamboo sharks and blacktip sharks, candelabra-like coral, and some stunningly psychedelic anemones. All three dives were enjoyable, but only Temple of the Sea ranks as a must-see site. (If you dive Temple of the Sea, keep an eye out for that mega-barracuda!)

We’ve tracked tigers, done the holy kora around Mt. Kailash, swum with whale sharks, and visited the Taj Mahal. But seriously, people, one of the greatest things we’ve discovered in our travel careers is Ken’s flower-eating pet fish.

In 1982, Ken (Fatt) caught the fish, a giant gourami, and put it into a small pool in his family’s garden. Bizarrely, the fish, which the family has creatively named “Fish”, seems to be thriving in the pool and has adapted to the family’s presence – it even eats flowers right out of your hand. Honestly, Fish seems much more like a puppy dog to me. How cool is that?

Also, notice our first HD video. Finally high definition has come to ContemporaryNomad.com.

Bizarrely, a man carrying a large bag entered our apartment building yesterday and stole the shoes sitting in front of everyone’s apartment doors. (You don’t wear shoes into your apartment in Thailand.) Little Cindy Lou Who downstairs saw him running away from the scene!!! Either Santa Claus got really confused or there’s a Grinch in Thailand. Luckily, he didn’t seem to want our skanky, ripped-up flip-flops.

A cruise through Halong Bay is certainly the highlight of any visit to northern Vietnam. The phenomenal string of jungle-covered karst islands rivals the surreal beauty of similar landscapes in Thailand, Laos, China and the Philippines. To the south of Halong, stunning Cat Ba Island beckons travelers with limitless possibilities for kayaking, hiking, or lounging on white-sand beaches.

Thomas and I had the extraordinary luck to share our amazing Halong experience with a fantastic group of fellow travelers on the Imperial Deluxe Junk. Beautiful suites, excellent food, and great company, what more could we ask for? Our three day trip through Halong Bay and neighboring Lan Ha Bay featured stops at the Hang Sung Sot caves and the national park on Cat Ba Island as well as an overnight stay on the idyllic hideaway of Monkey Island. Our experience was superb.

But don’t plan that trip without seriously doing your homework. Halong is certainly one of Southeast Asia’s most amazing natural attractions, but there’s one major caveat. Vietnam’s most beloved destination is also one of its most hated due to the endless tour scams which plague travelers to the region. For some reason, the Vietnamese government continues to allow this mess to worsen causing major damage to its tourist industry.

Tips on Organizing a Halong Bay Tour

1. Determine which type of tour is best for you. Essentially, there are four basic classes:

Super-budget party tours are best for people interested in very low-cost drinking tours. 2-day tours can be as low as $25.
• Budget tours are low cost options for people who want to see Halong Bay, but require less luxury. 2-day tour $40-$50, 3-day tour $60-80
• Luxury tours emphasize beautiful boats and good food in addition to natural attractions. 2-day tour $80-$90, 3-day tour $110-$150
• Super-luxury tours offer increased luxury and unique itineraries. You can spend as much as you want in this class.

But remember, price never guarantees quality. Insist upon seeing pictures of your boat and cabin before booking. (Also, be sure to read about 3-day tours below.)

2. Do your homework and ask for recommendations, but keep some important things in mind.

It is important to research companies online and ask your friends and fellow travelers for recommendations before choosing a tour company. However, remember that Halong tour operators regularly post fake positive reviews of their own companies and negative reviews of their competitors.

Similarly, each traveler’s experience with a particular company can be quite different. Some people pay for a budget tour but are upgraded to luxury boats without their knowledge. These travelers may tell you not to waste your money on a luxury tour because the budget boats are so nice. In reality, they might have been on a luxury tour without even knowing it.

3. Be specific when booking your cruise and get details in writing.

Insist on having a cabin which is away from the dining room as well as the generator. Never assume anything. Ask whether you will have electricity (fan, air con) during the entire trip or only at night. Are all meals included? What will be served? Is kayaking included? How many kayaks will be available? Will there be karaoke on board? (I personally hate karaoke and did not want to listen to people screeching for three days.)

As annoying as it may sound, if booking agents recognize that you know what you are doing, you are more likely to get a good booking. Low maintenance people often discover that they end up getting bad cabins, bungalows, hotel rooms, etc.

If booking agents refuse to answer your questions or have no pictures of the boats, go somewhere else.

4. Report any problems immediately.

When you board the boat, report any problems (bad cabin, broken air con) immediately. The longer you wait to resolve a problem, the less likely it is that the problem will be resolved.

5. Never pay in advance.

Many tour booking companies insist on full payment before the tour. We booked the Imperial Deluxe Junk tour through Hotel Thien Trang in Hanoi and they allowed us to pay after the tour was completed. Not surprisingly, our tour was perfect while those who paid up front experienced several problems.

Many of these problems are not caused by the tour company itself, but rather by unscrupulous booking agents who book lower value accommodation while charging their customers for premium cabins. (Remember that within each tour class, there are still quality differences between cabins, bungalows, hotel rooms, etc.)

Unfortunately, if you book from abroad, you may be required to pay in advance to ensure your booking.

6. Extra attention is required for 3-day tours.

In our opinion, 3-day tours of Halong Bay represent much better value than the 2-day packages. Travelers on 2-day tours spend much of their time traveling back and forth between Hanoi and the port. However, booking a 3-day tour requires a bit of extra attention.

Most 3-day tours spend the second night in a hotel on Cat Ba Island or in a bungalow on one of the islands in Lan Ha Bay. Many travelers fail to focus their attention on the quality of the accommodation they receive on this part of the trip.

We specifically booked a premium bungalow for the second night, a beautiful piece of island eye candy backed by towering cliffs with a panoramic view of the bay. Several travelers, many of whom paid far more than us, were packed like sardines into shanty-like huts with no view at all. Make sure you know what you are booking and demand a refund if you don’t get what you have been promised.

7. If you discover you are on a bad tour, sit back and enjoy it.

Many travelers discover that despite their best efforts, they end up on a bad tour. If that happens, give up, sit back, and enjoy the scenery. The main reason you’ve come to Halong is to see the incredible landscape. Don’t let unprofessional tour operators ruin that as well.

UPDATE Feb.18, 2011

Many people are coming to our site after the recent tragedy in Halong Bay in which 12 people on a Halong cruise died when a cruise boat sank during the night.

Clearly, safety is an additional factor that must be considered when arranging a Halong tour. Tourists should make it very clear that boat quality and safe procedures are an essential requirement before booking with any company. Also, when boarding, take time to consider potential escape routes should an accident occur. Again, refusing to pay until after the tour gives you the option of leaving should the boat look unsafe.

Cabin on Imperial Deluxe Junk

The bathroom in our cabin

Beautiful premium bungalows on Monkey Island

Interior of premium bungalow on Monkey Island

Discount bungalow on Monkey Island

Today, after 859 days walking, Ed successfully completed his epic journey and has achieved what no man before has managed to accomplish. He has, indeed, walked the entire length of the Amazon River. We know what one day in the jungle can do to your body, so two and a half years is quite a feat of endurance. (Even Amazon Indians don’t walk through the jungle continuously.) You’re the man, Ed. Tony and Thomas bow down before you in awe.

If you click over to Ed’s web site, the last time I checked it was down. I guess somebody forgot to notify their web host about the inevitable surge in traffic.

Can you believe it? We’ve been on the road for an amazing three years straight. At times, it feels like we left yesterday. At other times, our old life in Berlin seems like it was decades ago. Three years, and we are still in Asia. I guess we had better consider some other continents. But, there’s still so much more to see here.

We see walls of tires with bamboo spears jutting out on corners we used to pass by, gun fights in Lumphini Park, armed vehicles advancing on the Rachaprasong intersection, an area we passed through multiple times a day. It feels like our second home is under siege.

We hope all our friends in Thailand are safe: Poy, Ning, Mr. T, grandma, our friends at 7 Eleven, the little person who plays the Leprechaun at the Irish pub, the staff at the local restaurant near the tobacco factory, everyone who welcomed us and made our stay so memorable. We just wanted everyone to know we are thinking of you.

What’s up with the tourists here in Laos? The country is a magnet for drinkers and drug addicts. The party crowd plows their way across the country in a wave of destructive cluelessness. Why? Why come to Laos to party? Is there something I’m missing? Stick to Fort Lauderdale or Ibiza.

In response to this wave of numbskulls, Laos has begun to plead for better behavior. Here are some of the amusing/sad announcements we’ve seen in hotels and restaurants around the country.

Our six weeks together flew by at lightning speed. But, alas, Beverly left us in Luang Prabang as previous commitments called her away. We miss you Beverly!!! (The pictures above should be viewed while humming the theme song to “The Way we Were.”)

Memories,
Like the corners of my mind,
Misty water-colored memories,
Of the way we were…

In the last two and a half years, we’ve never mentioned fresh-water dolphins – that doesn’t mean we haven’t been trying to find them. Scouring the rivers of eastern India for Gangetic dolphins and Myanmar for Irrawaddy dolphins, we’ve been looking and looking and looking. No luck.

It turns out that our lucky river was the Mekong. At long last, we’ve finally found them in Kratie, Cambodia. And when the luck came, it really came. Most people searching for fresh water dolphins are lucky to see a quick flash of dorsal fin or flipper. We, on the other hand, had tails, flippers, fins and the occasional head splashing and bobbing around us as somewhere between 9 and 12 dolphins encircled our boat. Considering that there are an estimated 100 of these highly endangered animals left in the Cambodian Mekong, I’d say we hit the jackpot. Even when we returned to the shore, we could clearly see the dolphins diving and playing as we sat sipping drinks and feasting on dragon fruit under the shade of some overhanging trees.

Now the downer. Somehow, the severely endangered Mekong dolphin has managed to survive the horrors of colonial hunting, the Vietnam war, and the Khmer Rouge. One would hope that that would be the end of the trauma. But China is now pushing to make the Mekong fully navigable from Yunnan down to the delta in Vietnam. That combined with plans to dam the river will certainly lead to the extinction of this remarkable animal in the Mekong.

Angkor is overwhelming – as expected. At $60 for the week pass, this just might be the most expensive monument we’ve ever visited. Perhaps, it’s almost worth it. As you can see from the pictures above, we’ve had a blast exploring the area with Lisa and Garrett as well as Beverly, who arrived later. For those of you who dream of visiting Angkor Wat, book your flights as soon as possible – this place is going to get busier and busier until it one day drowns under the weight of its own popularity. That hasn’t happened yet, but it will.